Generally considered Austria’s best winery, based on steadily outstanding wines across the entire range. Remarkable attention to detail for a large (by my standards at 60 hectares) winery. The wines are quite unlike any wines I know, not in their actual flavors, but rather the way flavors are presented to the palate. They are, it might be said, the Stradivarius of wines, distinguishable (and made precious) by the beauty of their tones. Indeed, I always seem to think in sonorous terms for Willi’s wines: “THE ACOUSTICS of the fruit are perfect,” I wrote at one point. You taste class immediately. Stuart Pigott described them as “silky.” I find them either lovably impressive or impressively lovable or who knows? Both.
